Basically I just made a removeable power and ground loop which I can simply plugin and boom, bypass the fuel pump module altogether. Get back to my shop and I permanently installed a set of jumpers. The wrench icon did come on and stay on but no codes thrown. Fashioned some temp jumpers out of 12awg wire and jammed them in the cavities as seen below:Ħ45064D4-FBF6-409B-964C-9B4DE405D694.jpegĭoing it this way forced me to leave the connector unplugged which, no big deal, engine ran fine for several hundred km on the way home. Took me about 45 minutes taking my time.īack story: car broke down, duh, luckily had my electrical kit with me so I began digging into connector at module and figured out what is power and ground supply to and from the module and fuel pump. With just a little electrical knowledge and some patience you can do this.
#Testing fuel pump driver module how to
I figured out how to bypass it temporarily while I order a new module and install it myself. Lots of you folks have had the pleasure of paying multiple tow bills to the dealer to get the dreaded fuel pump module repaired-if not for a little while. It’s worth noting that when my FPCM failed the engine would still turn over, I’m assuming yours does too, and it sounds to me like a bad fuse or faulty relay. No voltage here likely means a defective fuel pump control module. This pin is what supplies voltage to the fuel pump. If you get voltage at pin 1 of the FPCM, then check for voltage on pin 5 of the FPCM. What this does is bypass the fuel pump relay and BCM ground altogether and puts power directly to pin 1 of the FPCM. If you get a ground there, put a jumper wire between pin sockets 3 and 5 and try to start the vehicle. If the engine isn’t started after that time then the BCM will drop the ground and look for a signal from the crank position sensor. A helper may be good here as the BCM will only provide ground on that wire for a few seconds, enough to prime the fuel system. If so then check for ground on pin socket 2 with the key on. With the key off, pull that relay and put your voltmeter on pin sockets 1 and 3 of the fuse block you should have 12 volts on both sockets. If you have voltage across the fuse then the next place to look is the fuel pump relay. Based on no voltage on pin 1 of the FPCM, I would start by checking to make sure fuse F56 (30A) is in working order, as the power supply begins here. Hey Flexmood! Sorry to hear you’re having troubles with your Flex. Of course common sense prevails, do not do this if you don’t know what you’re doing with electrical and always make sure the key is off. Obviously if you’re under warranty I would not suggest this.
#Testing fuel pump driver module mod
I know a lot of you are handy and can do this mod yourselves. I always a small tool kit anyways which has the 7mm socket needed to remove that C pillar panel so I shouldn’t have to pay for a tow again. The fuel pump will be ‘on’ any time the key is on.Īnyways, I plan on keeping my jumpers in the glove box. Jumping those connections will turn on the fuel pump allowing you to start the engine. 1 and 5 get jumped together and 4 and 8 get jumped together.
![testing fuel pump driver module testing fuel pump driver module](https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/pump_wires_new_e15b655c0fcbc08655bcbecd1725532b856bfbf6.jpg)
If your colours vary, it is the 4 large wire gauge pins numbers 1,4,5,8. YEL/GRY and VIO/GRN - this is the power circuit WHT/TAN and BLK/GRN - this is the ground circuit The wires you want to connect together are: Perhaps it is just an on/off switch as the module is powered at all times when key on. Also I’m not entirely sure what relation the pcm has to this module but they are connected. I do not recommend keeping it permanently bypassed as in a collision the restraints module can actually turn off the fuel pump.